#FASHION DESIGNER & CREATIVE PATTERN CUTTER
Whether it’s creating a new garment from an old, worn, sentimental piece, working to a brief such as ‘David Bowie meets Tom Sawyer Dungarees’, or simply cutting a really good pair of trousers for everyday use: Bella Gonshorovitz always enjoys working in collaboration with her clients, creating fine clothes that are unique and designed for longevity. She believes that the garments she makes should fit the wearer, rather than the other way around.
Bella is a graduate of Instituto Marangoni and Central Saint Martins’ Innovative Pattern Cutting postgraduate degree, She has worked for various brands including threeASFOUR, Alexander Wang, Gottex and Gertrud, gaining invaluable experience as a designer. Upon her return to London in 2012 she opened her made-to-measure studio which is located in East London. The combination of Bella’s experience as a designer and her pattern cutting skills result in contemporary clothes with a personalised fit. The entire process – from the first design consultation, through the fitting stage, to the sewing of the final garment, is done in-house with commitment to environmental and emotional sustainability. Additionally to the made-to-measure practice, Bella works from a more conceptual approach on projects such as costumes for music artists (Petite Meller, Enya) dance performances (Vuong 10) and films (Dark was the night). She also writes on the political and social aspects of fashion, and is currently undertaking an MA in Fashion Psychology at London College of Fashion. READ MORE
#FASHION DESIGNER & ENTREPRENEUR
Starting her journey with a Diploma at London College of Fashion, a BA Hons degree in Fashion from, The University of Creative Arts and to 15 years in the fashion industry, specialising as a Senior Menswear Designer. Working for the likes of Wolsey, Gio-Goi, Ted Baker and other high street retailers, she is experienced with every stage of the design process, including initial design concept through to liaising with factories. Michelle has travelled the world for trade shows, delivering presentations and trend research, adding to a global wealth of experience.
With keen entrepreneurial spirit, Michelle previously set up and ran her own T-shirt business and more recently a started new initiative, ‘My Fashion Tutor’. As company director responsible Michelle learned the basic rubrics for small business management; enabling a true understanding of the challenges and joys of running your own fashion business.
Michelle is considered by her peers as a valuable asset in creating solutions and improvements to design processes in business and in education. She now uses this experience to inspire the next generation of fashion industry professionals as a visiting lecturer and also working as a freelance fashion designer. Michelle strives to continually improve upon her own skills and knowledge and is currently studying a MA in Psychology for Fashion Professionals, at the Unversity of Arts London. In her free time Michelle enjoys travelling and perfecting her dance moves at Soul Stepping! READ MORE
#FASHION DESIGNER & APPLIED PSYCHOLOGY IN FASHION
Carmen Ludwig is a PhD candidate of Ludwig-Maximilians-University in consumer and design psychology. She is based in Munich and focuses in her research on the influence of design features on consumers’ perception of sustainable values. Before commencing her doctoral degree program, Carmen graduated with a M.Sc. degree in applied Psychology in Fashion from London College of Fashion and a B. A. in Fashion Design from Pforzheim University, Germany.
Recent examples of Carmen’s work experience include design, trend and material research creation of boards, experimentation on fabrics and materials, embroidered samples, artworks, prints for houses such as Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and Fabien Nobile. Before joining the first cohort of Fashion Psychologists, Carmen took over the creative direction of Jean Paul Berlin, as senior designer.
Furthermore, Carmen collaborates with research agencies in Consumer Psychology (MediaAnalyzer) and supervises master students at Ludwig-Maximilians-University in market, consumer, ecological Psychology and diagnosis focusing on sustainable, product/brand related psychological research.
Given the emerging interdisciplinary field of Psychology applied to Fashion, Carmen’s academic experience and practices in both fields constitutes the basis for understanding the influence and social components of design features in a consumer psychological context. As such she has been awarded with the British Psychological Society, NIBPS Annual Conference, research poster prize; top 3, Prix D’Innovation, La Bioestetique, Paris and research scholarships of Konrad-Adenauer Foundation.
Associating sustainable values with Positive Psychology and inclusive design, Carmen was active member of Well-being Research Hub and the 5th Better Life Series at London College of Fashion.
#FASHION DESIGNER - MAASTRICHT
The past and the memories of the past are the biggest influence in my designs. For me the past is a treasure chest full of great experiences and feelings that I want to translate into clothing.
I am using colours and materiality to tell my story and translate a certain feeling to my customer. You could say that I want to make ‚wearable nostalgia’. I believe that your childhood has a big influence on who you become as a person and what profession yo choose kater in life. For me it was always clear that I wanted to work with textiles and fashion and I jhave never lost that path, I just had to find out who I am in this profession. When I think about my role in the fashion world I do not see myself changing it, but I see myself improving it. I want to give my customers the feeling that they know me and just like a romanticist I want my designs to give people a certain feeling instead of just being pretty. My graduation collection (‚Fading Phases’) is a reflection of my past and the fading of childhood memories. The older I get the more images morph together. Not only memories, my childhood innocence also fades. I am evolving into a oman and the little girl inside m eis hiding more and more. The play between naive innocence and sensuality is really important in my designs.
I love to use texture and materiality while my forms stay simple and clean. Furthermore, colours are really important to me since they can translate certain feelings and give a certain vibe. My gradiation collection is designed for children, which will make the play between naivety and sensuality a lot more exciting but also controversial. The girl I am designing for is on the verge of experiencing first sings of sensuality mixed together with the innocence of a child.
Victoria had also shown her graduation (kids) collection during FASHIONCLASH 2016. READ MORE
#FASHION DESIGNER - MAASTRICHT
For me, my designs are not just pieces of clothing. They embody an idea, and are shaped into a form that clashes two worlds together. From one side its clothing that is well crafted and gives an ode to the love I have for the couture fashion. From the other side it brings a dramatic statement that should raise questions with the audience in how they make their decisions in buying clothes. This concept will always be a crucial point in the designs I make. It cannot be just beautiful clothing, it has to give the viewer something to think about.
For my collection ‘The Last Garrison’ I looked to the ‘autarkic egos’ of people. The autarkic ego is a term invented by philosopher Ayn Rand and is crucial in her objectivism. She states that the autarkic ego is a person that holds an idea and doesn’t change that idea to please other people. It’s a person that makes its own rational choices and thinks before he acts. With my collection I wanted to transform opinions people have towards consumption[ME1] . I wanted to create my own resistance army of aggressive woman that embody this idea. They choose for themselves and will not bow with their ideas for anybody. At the start of my designs I cut up a lot of army clothing and rearranged them in a new order around the body to show the ridiculousness of how fashion makes clothing that’s rather impractical to wear[ME2] . The choice for army clothing was easy and had multiple meanings, but mostly because army clothing is very practical and by cutting it up the practical side gets lost. From that choice on, I wanted to work with patterns that save fabric in cutting, but because of that you even loose more fabric in a piece of clothing.
Normally in making patterns for garments produces a lot of wasted fabric, which is later thrown away. In my current collection I instead create patterns that up the whole width of the fabric, which does not allow for waste, but because of their design, all the fabric remains on the body, so at the end it uses much more fabric compared to a conventional way of construction. This could trigger the audience to question their personal view on overconsumption in fashion.
Rich fabrics combined with a lot of embroideries and handcrafted finishings make an authentic collection, not easy to copy and not meant to be over-produced. This, combined with the aesthetics of army-inspired couture and with a final dress that holds enormous amounts of fabric, is my criticism of overconsumption in fashion today. This is my army ‘The Last Garrison - of the autarkic ego’.
Maarten van Mulken presented his graduation collection ‘The Last Garrison’ at FASHIONCLASH Festival in Maastricht.
His collection was also selected for Lichting 2016. READ MORE
#FASHION DESIGNER - MAASTRICHT
Ebby Port is born in Tilburg but moved to Geleen (Limburg) where she feels more at home. After studying in Rotterdam and Brussels Ebby decided to live in the area that makes her the happiest. Now she shares a studio in Sittard with a close friend, Alexander Claessen. Ebby has been designing clothes since 11 years now, since she had her first sewing class. In the designs for her own small independent brand ebby port, she uses her own unique visual language based on her love for materials, fine art, photography, philosophy and her own personal styling. She finds it important to be free in creating collections, prints and idea’s that reflect on time, music, art, and all other thing influencing people’s life and behaviour.
Ebby: “For me my work is always about freedom in a way, or/and a reflection of the time we live in. I get inspired by various aspects of life. But it is always very personal. It is about emotions, what I see around me and the world turing around. I use silkscreen printing technique to develop my fabrics. For me this is a way to express my thought and I enjoy to use this very physical technique. It feels like sculpting in a way."
Ebby Port presents her collection once a year at FASHIONCLASH Festival in Maastricht. She has also launched her new webpage earlier this year. READ MORE